Thursday, April 29, 2021

Barons Court

Baron's Court is the 49th station on the District Line that I have visited. Tracks were laid here in 1874 when the District railway ( now the District Line) opened an extension from Earl's Court to Hammersmith. At that time there was no need for a station here as it was just open fields and market gardens. An increase in house building in the early 20th cent created the need for a new station, which opened here in 1905. The station has four platforms and serves both the District and the Piccadilly Lines.


Unique to the station are these pew like wooden benches with the station's name along the back on enamelled panels.










One of the original ticket booths at the top of the stairs now displays information about the station.
Other than the ticket barriers, the ticket hall seems to have retained its Edwardian character.


The station is a Grade II listed building and you can still see many of its original features, including the  terracotta facing and art nouveau lettering. It was designed by Harry Ford, the District railway's architect from 1900-1911. His stations were characterised by his use of brown terracotta facades. The front of the station still features the name 'District Railway'. Ford is also  credited with the use of the underground sign with a capital U and a capital D. 


Outside the station I turned right onto Palliser Road, walking past these shops with seemed popular. One of them had a long queue forming  but that is probably more due to social distancing than anything else.


At the end of the road is the entrance to the Queen's Club. Established in 1886, it is a private sports club with 28 outdoor grass tennis courts and eight indoor. It is also the national headquarters of real tennis having two courts. The club hosts the annual Queen's Club Championships for men on its grass courts and is used by the top players as a warm up for the Wimbledon Championships. I have watched many exciting games of tennis here and prefer it to Wimbledon as you are much closer to the action.

Almost opposite Baron's Court station is Baron's Court Road which takes you back to West Kensington station. There is a mixture of  houses on the road. These were built in the 1930s with blocks of flats replacing those bombed during WW2




Just a little further down the road is an archway leading to the charming Comeragh Mews. Built as stabling and carriage houses in the Victorian times they are now much sort after in this desirable area so close to a tube station.
I walked along the mews and out onto Comeragh Street where there is the Curtains Up pub.

The name refers to the theatre in the basement of the pub.

















The theatre only has 57 seats. It was opened in 1991 and features a programme of short run plays.

I returned via the mews to Baron's Court Road and found a blue plaque  at No32 for  the aircraft designer Sir Geoffrey De Havilland but couldn't see one for Mahatma Gandhi who lived at No 20 in the 1890s whilst he was in London studying law.





I went back towards the station to walk down Margravine Road.  On the left hand side is the Magravine cemetery which opened in 1869 in response to the lack of burial space in local churchyards, made all the worse for the outbreak of cholera. The land was formerly used as market gardens and orchards.
Over 80,000 burials have taken place here but the only burials now allowed are in privately owned graves.

In 1940 bombs damaged many of the gravestones.  In 1951 the cemetery became a garden of rest and the process of burying many of the headstones began and the area laid to grass. In 1953 the Anglican chapel was demolished. The cemetery has over 300 trees as well as numerous wild flowers. 

It was a joy to wander around listening to all the birdsong knowing that just a few hundred metres away is the A4 with its continuous flow of heavy traffic, screaming sirens and roaring motor bikes blocking out all other sounds. 
After leaving the cemetery I continued along Margravine Road on to St Dunstan's Road. This is a very familiar road for me as it was here that I started my first teaching job in 1972. It was a very small mixed secondary school for pupils aged 11-18. The school occupied the top two floors of a Victorian school building whilst the ground floor was used by a primary school. It had very few facilities. All sports activities had to take place elsewhere and as I was responsible for Girl's PE I spent a lot of my time on school coaches going backwards and forwards to the sports playing fields on the other side of the Thames. I knew the school had closed many years ago and I assumed the land had been redeveloped but I was wrong.

I was so surprised to see the school building is still here, just as I remembered it. Now it is a 6th form college. Both the previous secondary and primary schools were merged with other local schools.







The old school keeper's house on the right was used for Home Economics. The newer building up ahead was the sports hall that was built the year before I left.
The view from the back of the school. There used to be a small shelter on the right where I parked my motor bike. It was a 100cc Yamaha so you could only just call it a motor bike but anything else would have been too heavy for me in those days. The bike served me well as I had a long journey to work from Teddington, which would have taken me ages by public transport. It was a happy school and I met many life long friends here.  Nearly all of them have now passed away so the visit today was tinged with sadness but it was also a reminder of the many laughs we all shared.



St Dunstan's Road brings you out onto Fulham Palace Road and on the left is the large Charing Cross Hospital. Charing Cross was originally a voluntary hospital called the West London infirmary, founded in 1818 near the Strand in Charing Cross. That building is now occupied by Charing Cross police station. In 1827 it changed its name to Charing Cross Hospital and later set up a medical school. It retained its name when it moved here to its present site on Fulham Palace Road in 1973. 


The hospital was just a few minutes walk from the school and the staff were delighted as we now had easy access to the shops and bank within the hospital.











I carried on towards Hammersmith and then took a right turn onto Talgarth Road back towards Barons Court Station. There are some very interesting properties on this stretch of the road. This is the home of LAMDA ( London Academy of Music and Dramatic Art). When I took this photo I didn't realise the large, modern building next door was the main part of the Academy so missed it off! It moved here in 2003. The institutions that form LAMDA include the Academy of Music that dates back to 1861. From 1947 the building was home to the Royal Ballet Company. The Lower school moved to The White Lodge in Richmond park in 1955 and in 2003 the Upper school moved to Floral Street in Covent Garden.
Next to LAMDA is Colet House. This was originally part of a terrace of 9 houses known as St Paul's Studios. It was built in 1885 and the other individual studios were built a couple of years later. Colet house was built with two ground floor studios and a large studio on the first floor. The house was occupied by a number of different artists until the 1930s when dance classes were held in the studios. Nicolai Legat, the Russian ballet master held classes there with Dame Margot Fonteyn. 


Other Russians used the house and in 1938 P D Ouspensky, the philosopher and writer chose it as the headquarters of his work. It was here that he founded the Society for the Study of Normal Psychology, known today as the Study Society. During the war it was used by the Admiralty. Shortly afterwards it was leased by the Royal Ballet Company which had the main school next door. When the ballet company no longer needed Colet House the Study Society once again took up residence.




The remainder of the houses on this terrace stand out because of their double length studio windows. If you have ever travelled along this road the chances are you will have spotted them especially as you are likely to be stuck in a traffic jam here.



The houses were built in 1891 and were specifically built for 'bachelor artists'. With a housekeeper's apartment in the basement and the artist's residence on the ground floor, the rest of the space was for the studio with the large north facing window allowing in the maximum light. To the right of the large window you can see a long narrow window. This was to allow large canvasses to be removed from the studio. 

 
There are two types of house design. One has a doorway facing out and the other has a doorway to the side. Inside the alcove was a seat for clients or models awaiting the attention of the artist.

Looking up you can see the round glazed top of the window.

Across the road from the studios is Hammersmith and West London College. I decided to cross over and have a look down the road alongside the college.







On the opposite corner is Barons Keep, a 1930s built large apartment block.



It looks like each of the flats has a balcony which would have overlooked the school fields but now would just look out over the college. 

Down the road I spotted this small church with an unusual steeple. This church which has seating for 300 people was consecrated in 1961 but the first, much larger,  St Mary's was built here in 1813. Sadly the original church, which had a capacity for 1150 people was destroyed by a flying bomb in WW2.  


I walked round the corner from the church and found this small park. I just love finding these small irregular shaped parks squeezed in between and around existing buildings.


On one side of the park was this impressive building which is a restaurant and hotel. I discovered there was more to this building than the restaurant. This house with attached lodge was built for the  High Master of St Paul's when the school - founded next to St Paul's Cathedral with 153 pupils in 1509- moved here in 1884. The main school buildings just around the corner were demolished after the school moved again in 1968 to Barnes. St Paul's was the largest school in England at its foundation. The scholars were not required to make any payment but were required to be literate and they had to pay for their own wax candles, an expensive commodity at that time.


Soon after WW2 started the school was evacuated to Berkshire. The school became the headquarters of the 21st Army group under the command of General Montgomery, an old pupil of the school. It is said Montgomery took great pleasure in occupying the office of the High Master. It was in the school boardroom that the Allied invasion on D Day was planned led by General Dwight Eisenhower and Montgomery. King George VI and Winston Churchill both visited them here to approve the plans. In September 1945 the school buildings were returned to St Paul's.  Maps used by Eisenhower and Montgomery were still displayed on the walls. These are now displayed in the Montgomery Room at the school's present Location in Barnes.


 

This is all that remains of the school now, the High Master's House which has become St Paul's Hotel. Walking back to the tube station I reflected on today's walk, which was of great interest to me, having worked in this area. Some places were recognisable but not many. As always, familiar places do bring back memories and for me they were very happy ones.

10 comments:

  1. This walk of all recent ones seems to have had the most memories for you. Not always easy emotionally to go back to old haunts. Maybe I should have done the same before we moved from Maryland. Pandemic though made that impossible.

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  2. I love the 1930s houses and I would be so interested in wandering through the cemetery.

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  3. Gosh, you can go home again! Glad that the school bldg was still there to bring back even more memories. It would certainly be a very interesting walk-around for anyone though, even without your special connection. From the interesting details of the station itself right through the return to the tube. Those long windows fascinate me, I m not an artist (nor a bachelor) but I love a room with lots of light. Wonder what they are like inside now? I have to struggle on your underground posts not to make my comments too long, everything is so interesting .

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  4. Good to see the old style 'u' still in use at St Pauls Studios. Was there more than one St Paul as indicated by the apostrophe placement? The studio windows with buildings attached are quite weird.

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  5. Those artist studio's are really fascinating and that in 1891.

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  6. I find cemeteries peaceful too. Sometimes it is more interesting to walk among the dead than the living!

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  7. Another interesting tour especially with your own connections to the area.

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  8. I love the old station building. A nice area to learn about too.

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  9. You continue to amaze me with your detailed knowledge of the areas you visit.

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  10. What a cool idea with the pride colours, I wish we could see more of that here.

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