East Finchley

 

This is the 46th station on the Northern line and the 225th station on the Underground  that I have visited. I am now almost 7 miles away from Central London so I am never sure if there will be much of interest to write about. The station is on the High Barnet branch of the Northern Line. A station was opened here in August 1867 on the Great Northern Railway line between Finsbury Park and Edgware stations. It was completely rebuilt in the late 1930s with additional tracks added. Northern Line trains started serving the station in 1939 and the main line trains ceased in 1941.

The new station was designed by Charles Holden in an art deco style.

A feature of the station is the stairwell flooded with light from the glazed exterior. 

You can also see the station offices which are built over the tracks.

Large windows giving much light into the ticket hall. Always a feature of a Charles Holden station.

A much larger station than I thought it would be with one very unusual feature. 

Above the entrance is a sculpture of an archer. 

The sculpture is by Eric Aumonier and dates from 1940. Its aim is to link East Finchley station to its historic surroundings as an ancient hunting area with the archer's bow pointing in the direction of Central London. The sculpture was part of a wider initiative to link stations to their local area. Unfortunately this was cut short by the outbreak of WW2 and consequently this is the only completed work.

As I was taking the photos of the station, I noticed the building next to the station car park.

There is no mistaking this sign. I then realised I had been here in 2012. This is the McDonald University where they teach serving and management skills. I came here on a course in 2012 as I had been recruited as an interviewer for those candidates who wanted to volunteer as a Games Maker for the 2012 London Olympics. I had completely forgotten that it was here in North Finchley. One thing I do remember is that I was offered a very healthy lunch that did not include a hamburger and fries.

On the other side of the station is the Old White Lion pub. This pub had to be moved from its original site because of the arrival of the railway. Prior to the Old White Lion, this was the site of the 'Dirthouse', a coaching inn for waggoners and travellers. In the 17th and 18th centuries trade between settlements in Finchley and London increased. Hay and livestock would be taken to London by cart or wagon and would return from the city loaded with soot or manure, which gave rise to the name 'Dirthouse'.

Across the road from the station is Cherry Tree Wood. This was part of a huge hunting area developed by the church in the 13th cent. In 1915 The Wood was bought by Finchley Urban District Council from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners and opened to the public.

I came out of the park to continue my walk down the long High Street.

The Phoenix Cinema was built by Premier Electric Theatres in 1910 but didn't open as the company went bankrupt. But in 1912 it opened as the Picturedrome with a film about the Titanic. At that time there was an orchestra pit as music was played to accompany the silent movies. Its name changed to the Coliseum in 1924 and began to show 'talkies' from 1929 onwards. Over the years it changed to the Gaumont and then The Rex. In 1975 the new owners changed the name once again and it became The Pheonix. But with declining audiences it was going to be demolished until the local community stepped in and with numerous petitions and protests, a new Phoenix Cinema Trust was formed with the help of a grant from the Greater London Council in 1985. The cinema is still functioning today having been refurbished in 2010. 

This pub on the High Street started life in the 1700s as a forge with the blacksmith illicitly selling beer. It became known as The Jolly Blacksmith. It was licensed in 1790 and the name changed to The Bald Faced Stag. It is said that the name arose as this was a meeting point for public deer hunts. It has also been suggested that the name might have come from a white faced stag that was known to roam Finchley Common.

In this digital world in which we live, police stations with public access to report crimes are rare.  So this Metropolitan Police office on the High Street was unusual. I couldn't find the times of opening though just a sign with a QR code and website details for you to report non emergency crimes.

I turned off the High Street onto East End Road.  Holy Trinity School was founded here by the parish church in 1847. The building originally provided for 80 boys, 80 girls and 80 infants. Each department having its own head. Accommodation for the Headmaster and the Headmistress was provided at both ends of the school.

Over time the school expanded. Following WW2 there were over 500 pupils on roll. Some classes were held at the Congregational church opposite. In 1975 a new school was built a short distance away. The school was opened by the Bishop of London and Margaret Thatcher who was the MP for Finchley.

Pupils remained at the school until they reached the age of 14. They had to pay for their tuition: two (old) pence a week in the infants; sixpence for the first child in the Boys' and Girls' schools and three pence for any additional children. Fees were paid until 1903. In 1991 the school was purchased by the Bobath Centre and is used as a centre to help improve the lives of children with cerebral palsy.

Lots of green areas alongside East End Road.

I walked on to find The Holy Trinity Church. The church was designed by Anthony Salvin, the same person who designed the school. Both buildings are Grade II listed.

It looked a beuatiful church and dates back to 1846. It wasn't open so I couldn't go inside where I believe the stained glass windows are worth a visit. I thought the bell tower was unusual.

I thought this hall belonged to the church but I was wrong. It is the Hindu organisation, Shree Aden Depala Mitra Mandal. The hall is used by Local members of the Hindu community for celebrations and other events.

These are the gates to the St Pancras and Islington cemeteries. This is the third largest cemetery in the UK and is the largest in terms of burial numbers with over one million interments and cremations. Following the Metropolitan Burials Act 1852 outer London cemeteries were created to alleviate the overcrowding which was happening in parish churhyard which were badly managed. The cemetery was established in 1854 as the first municiplally owned cemetery in London when St Pancras Burial Board bought 88 acres of former farm land on Finchley Common, A further 94 acres were bought in 1877 and the total area divided between Islington and Camden.

Walking back towards the station I found yet more interesting shops on the High Street.

This is the Baptist Church hall. Built in 1902 by George Baines the Art Nouveau Gothic church is faced in knapped flint. This is where the flint is split showing its dark centre which are then set into the wall.

I would loved to have gone inside for a look round but there was an event taking place and I didn't think gatecrashing was appropriate. I have enjoyed my walk around East Finchley today. It has so much more to offer that I had anticipated. I hope the rest of the stations on the Northern Line are as interesting.

Highgate

 

Highgate station is on the High Barnet Branch of the Northern Line. The station was originally opened in 1867 as part of the Great Northern railway's line between Edgware and Finsbury Park. Due to the hilly terrain, the station was built in a deep cutting excavated from Highgate Hill, next to Archway Road. Tunnels were built through the hillside and began taking trains to East Finchley in 1939. The trains did not stop at Highgate. The London Underground started serving this station in 1941 using new platforms in tunnels beneath the surface station.

The first thing I noticed when I stepped off the train was the length of the platform. They were built to accommodate 9 carriage trains which were planned for the Northern Line but never served Highgate as they were withdrawn at the start of the war.

Long escalators.

This Mark Wallinger labyrinth is unusual as it has a black background instead of the usual white.

There are four different exits from the station all requiring a walk uphill.

Walking up from the station I got a glimpse of the Great Northern Railway's old station through the fence.

At the top of the hill from the station is the Woodman pub. The original pub was built in the early 19th century to provide refreshment and stabling for the horses of the mail coaches which would have struggled getting to the top of the hill. It was rebuilt in the early 20th century with further additions over the years.

I think it's the first time I've seen a dog's menu posted outside a pub.

A large roundabout in front of the pub showed me that I needed to walk down each of the roads to see what I could find. I was surprised by the number of small shops in the vicinity as I expected all the shops to be in Highgate Village, a short walk away but I was wrong. There were cafes, bakeries, bookshops, small gift shops. Lots of places to browse. It was such a bright day that my first job was to try and find a peaked cap. I had left mine at home and without shielding my eyes I couldn't see. Yes, I do wear sunglasses but find I still need a visor or sunhat. I am pleased to sat a local charity shop found me a new cap so I was ready to wander.

I started with Archway road and followed the shops downhill which I imagined would lead me to the Archway Bridge which I saw when I walked around the previous station.

This is the Boogaloo pub which has its own 24hr radio station. If you want to listen just look it up on the internet. https://theboogaloo.co.uk/

Across the road is the 1905 Wesleyan methodist Church saved by the Highgate Society. It is now a theatre and community centre holding various music, drama and arts events.

I went in to have a look around and a brief sit down.

Further down the road is the Highgate Hill Murugan Temple. This is a Hindu Temple dedicated to Lord Munugan who is considered the God of War, Victory and Wisdom. According to Hindu mythology, Lord Murugan is the son of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. He is often depicted as a young man with six faces and twelve arms riding a peacock.

The Temple was built by Tamil Hindus from Sri Lanka who had emigrated to the UK, It opened in 1979 and was the first Hindu Temple that Queen Elizabeth visited in the UK as part of her Golden Jubilee tour in 2002.

    

A little further along was this row of shops with flats above. The arched windows were completely different from anything else I had seen. I tried to find out more information about their history but sadly failed.




I turned off Archway Road onto Tile Kiln Lane.  I assume the name refers to tile kilns that were probably here during medieval times.

The lane brought me out onto Hornsey Lane which is the road that crosses the Archway Bridge.

Going in the opposite direction takes you past the Hornsey Lane reservoir. I believe this covered reservoir was built in the early 1800s to provide water for the locality. In the 1930s 15 million gallons of water were pumped to this and Crouch Hill reservoir for local consumption.

The pumping station next to the reservoir is now a public art gallery and studio space. The basement has been converted into a gym for a neighbouring housing complex.

I continued on my way down a couple of side streets. All the houses looked large and expensive . Many have steps leading up to the front door. Not just one or two but more like ten to twenty. Not great if you have kids in a buggy or a baby in a pram. Some had ramps but not many.

On South Grove is this Grade II listed building which was once the house of Sir William Cornwallis, comptroller to the household of Queen Mary. In 1588 it was called Arundel House. Francis Bacon died there in 1626. The interior has some original features including panelling and the staircase. It was altered and refronted in the 18th century with more rebuilding in the 20th century. It is now divided into 3 houses.

Francis Bacon was a philosopher and statesman who contracted pneumonia while experimenting with preserving food by freezing a chicken in snow. One local legend claims that the area is still haunted by a chicken.

Further on down was this terrace of houses. Just looked like any other until I noticed the sculptures on the roof.

The Flask pub dates back to c1716. It is named after the flasks of Spa water sold there.

I made my way to Pond Square which is the heart of Highgate Village. Pond square no longer has a pond. This was filled in in 1864 as a health risk. But since 1881 it has been a public square with its magnificent plane trees, surrounded by amazing buildings, each with their own history. London Plane trees were commonly planted due to their tolerance of industrial pollution. The ones here are left unpruned to grow to their natural height

At the back of the square is Rock House. Built c1770, it is a very elegant building with its oriel windows and pedimented front door.

 Moreton House built in 1714 was restored in the 1960s after a fire. It was here that Dr Gillman, a surgeon, provided a home for the English poet, Samuel Taylor Coleridge (1772-1834). Gillman helped him overcome his addiction to Laudenum. When the Gillman family moved house to the Grove in 1823, Coleridge came with them and stayed with them until his death in 1834.

Pond square chapel

This is Church House, an 18th century listed building. At one time c1802 it was an early Jewish school for both boys and girls. At the beginning of the 20th cent it was the home of Harry Beck (1902-74), designer of the world famous London Underground map and someone I have mentioned many times on this blog.

The white building next to Church House is the Highgate Literary and Scientific Society. Founded in 1839, the Institute's mission was to provide lectures and classes for men with no other access to education. Today it houses a library and archive. Its Victorian Hall is used for lectures, films, concerts and debates.

Originally one of three toll gates was sited here. There has been an inn here since 1634. The tollgate was removed in 1876. The name Highgate was first recorded in 1354 and thought to have originated from the words 'high toll gate'. The present building was rebuilt in mock Tudor style in 1905. Upstairs was a Victorian music hall which reopened as a theatre in 1997.

The Wrestlers is Highgate's oldest pub founded in 1547. The present building was built in 1921. To promote trade in the 18th century, publicans came up with the idea of a ceremony of 'Swearing on the Horns'. After swearing a series of oaths whilst touching the Horns (which appear to be a stag's antlers) the person became a Freeman of Highgate. This gave him the right to take the place of any pig seen resting in a ditch when travelling through the village. Not sure how much they must have drunk to come up with that one.

There were loads of lovely shops in the village.

These two shops began in 1832 as just one shop. In the window of 55b was the shop's history.

Before making my way back to the station I decided to visit one of the many cafes in the village to have some lunch.

Lots of delicious home made food to choose from but being Highgate it wasn't cheap.

Once back at the roundabout at the top of Highgate Hill there was just one road, Muswell Hill Road, that I wanted to have a quick walk down before returning home. This small cottage with the blue plaque was once the home of Peter Sellars who lived here in his youth. A far cry from the rest of his life as a film star. He sadly died at the age of 54 whilst staying at the Dorchester Hotel in London.

Just a little further down the road there is ancient woodland on either side. Known as Highgate Wood, this was once part of the ancient Forest of Middlesex which covered most of London.

I've had a very long but interesting day in Highgate with so much to see making it one of the most interesting of the stations outside Central London.