Highgate station is on the High Barnet Branch of the Northern Line. The station was originally opened in 1867 as part of the Great Northern railway's line between Edgware and Finsbury Park. Due to the hilly terrain, the station was built in a deep cutting excavated from Highgate Hill, next to Archway Road. Tunnels were built through the hillside and began taking trains to East Finchley in 1939. The trains did not stop at Highgate. The London Underground started serving this station in 1941 using new platforms in tunnels beneath the surface station.
Long escalators.
This Mark Wallinger labyrinth is unusual as it has a black background instead of the usual white.
There are four different exits from the station all requiring a walk uphill.
Walking up from the station I got a glimpse of the Great Northern Railway's old station through the fence.
At the top of the hill from the station is the Woodman pub. The original pub was built in the early 19th century to provide refreshment and stabling for the horses of the mail coaches which would have struggled getting to the top of the hill. It was rebuilt in the early 20th century with further additions over the years.
I think it's the first time I've seen a dog's menu posted outside a pub.
A large roundabout in front of the pub showed me that I needed to walk down each of the roads to see what I could find. I was surprised by the number of small shops in the vicinity as I expected all the shops to be in Highgate Village, a short walk away but I was wrong. There were cafes, bakeries, bookshops, small gift shops. Lots of places to browse. It was such a bright day that my first job was to try and find a peaked cap. I had left mine at home and without shielding my eyes I couldn't see. Yes, I do wear sunglasses but find I still need a visor or sunhat. I am pleased to sat a local charity shop found me a new cap so I was ready to wander.
I started with Archway road and followed the shops downhill which I imagined would lead me to the Archway Bridge which I saw when I walked around the previous station.
This is the Boogaloo pub which has its own 24hr radio station. If you want to listen just look it up on the internet. https://theboogaloo.co.uk/
Across the road is the 1905 Wesleyan methodist Church saved by the Highgate Society. It is now a theatre and community centre holding various music, drama and arts events.
I went in to have a look around and a brief sit down.
Further down the road is the Highgate Hill Murugan Temple. This is a Hindu Temple dedicated to Lord Munugan who is considered the God of War, Victory and Wisdom. According to Hindu mythology, Lord Murugan is the son of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. He is often depicted as a young man with six faces and twelve arms riding a peacock.
The Temple was built by Tamil Hindus from Sri Lanka who had emigrated to the UK, It opened in 1979 and was the first Hindu Temple that Queen Elizabeth visited in the UK as part of her Golden Jubilee tour in 2002.
A little further along was this row of shops with flats above. The arched windows were completely different from anything else I had seen. I tried to find out more information about their history but sadly failed.
I turned off Archway Road onto Tile Kiln Lane. I assume the name refers to tile kilns that were probably here during medieval times.
Going in the opposite direction takes you past the Hornsey Lane reservoir. I believe this covered reservoir was built in the early 1800s to provide water for the locality. In the 1930s 15 million gallons of water were pumped to this and Crouch Hill reservoir for local consumption.
The pumping station next to the reservoir is now a public art gallery and studio space. The basement has been converted into a gym for a neighbouring housing complex.
I continued on my way down a couple of side streets. All the houses looked large and expensive . Many have steps leading up to the front door. Not just one or two but more like ten to twenty. Not great if you have kids in a buggy or a baby in a pram. Some had ramps but not many.
On South Grove is this Grade II listed building which was once the house of Sir William Cornwallis, comptroller to the household of Queen Mary. In 1588 it was called Arundel House. Francis Bacon died there in 1626. The interior has some original features including panelling and the staircase. It was altered and refronted in the 18th century with more rebuilding in the 20th century. It is now divided into 3 houses.
Francis Bacon was a philosopher and statesman who contracted pneumonia while experimenting with preserving food by freezing a chicken in snow. One local legend claims that the area is still haunted by a chicken.
Further on down was this terrace of houses. Just looked like any other until I noticed the sculptures on the roof.
The Flask pub dates back to c1716. It is named after the flasks of Spa water sold there.
At the back of the square is Rock House. Built c1770, it is a very elegant building with its oriel windows and pedimented front door.
Moreton House built in 1714 was restored in the 1960s after a fire. It was here that Dr Gillman, a surgeon, provided a home for the English poet, Samuel Taylor Coleridge (1772-1834). Gillman helped him overcome his addiction to Laudenum. When the Gillman family moved house to the Grove in 1823, Coleridge came with them and stayed with them until his death in 1834.
Pond square chapel
This is Church House, an 18th century listed building. At one time c1802 it was an early Jewish school for both boys and girls. At the beginning of the 20th cent it was the home of Harry Beck (1902-74), designer of the world famous London Underground map and someone I have mentioned many times on this blog.
The white building next to Church House is the Highgate Literary and Scientific Society. Founded in 1839, the Institute's mission was to provide lectures and classes for men with no other access to education. Today it houses a library and archive. Its Victorian Hall is used for lectures, films, concerts and debates.
Originally one of three toll gates was sited here. There has been an inn here since 1634. The tollgate was removed in 1876. The name Highgate was first recorded in 1354 and thought to have originated from the words 'high toll gate'. The present building was rebuilt in mock Tudor style in 1905. Upstairs was a Victorian music hall which reopened as a theatre in 1997.
The Wrestlers is Highgate's oldest pub founded in 1547. The present building was built in 1921. To promote trade in the 18th century, publicans came up with the idea of a ceremony of 'Swearing on the Horns'. After swearing a series of oaths whilst touching the Horns (which appear to be a stag's antlers) the person became a Freeman of Highgate. This gave him the right to take the place of any pig seen resting in a ditch when travelling through the village. Not sure how much they must have drunk to come up with that one.
There were loads of lovely shops in the village.
These two shops began in 1832 as just one shop. In the window of 55b was the shop's history.
Before making my way back to the station I decided to visit one of the many cafes in the village to have some lunch.
Lots of delicious home made food to choose from but being Highgate it wasn't cheap.
Once back at the roundabout at the top of Highgate Hill there was just one road, Muswell Hill Road, that I wanted to have a quick walk down before returning home. This small cottage with the blue plaque was once the home of Peter Sellars who lived here in his youth. A far cry from the rest of his life as a film star. He sadly died at the age of 54 whilst staying at the Dorchester Hotel in London.
Just a little further down the road there is ancient woodland on either side. Known as Highgate Wood, this was once part of the ancient Forest of Middlesex which covered most of London.
I've had a very long but interesting day in Highgate with so much to see making it one of the most interesting of the stations outside Central London.
