Whitechapel

Whitechapel station is currently being redeveloped as part of the building of Crossrail. Whitechapel will be an important interchange for the District Line, the Hammersmith and City Line, the Overground and the Elizabeth line (Crossrail). When the new station opens, the historic entrance onto Whitechapel Road will have been retained but there will be a much larger ticket hall, concourse and new Crossrail platforms. Although the main entrance to the station is closed the station is still open and is accessed via a small side street. Crossrail is so far behind in its schedule that no-one seems to know when the redevelopment of Whitechapel will be completed.






The name Whitechapel came from the chapel called St Mary Matfelon, which had white walls. This was situated in what is now Altab Ali Park, which is closer to Aldgate East station rather than Whitechapel . The chapel was originally built in the 13th century and the last of a series of chapels with this name was so badly damaged in World War 2 that it was pulled down after the war. Its floor plan can be seen in the park as can a few of the graves. Matfelon was the name of the family responsible for the 14th century building.

Next to the underground station is this large red bricked building. Looking up you can read the words  'Working Lads' Institute'. Although this building didn't open until 1885, the institute was founded in 1876 by Henry Hill, a city merchant, who wanted to provide alternative activities for young teenage boys to keep them away from the pubs. When this large building opened in the mid 1880s it had a library, swimming baths, gym and provided educational classes as well as accommodation. By the 1890s it had been taken over by Rev Thomas Jackson, a social reformer who developed it into the Whitechapel Mission. The Mission's many activities included free breakfasts and penny dinners for local children. In its first year it served over 11,000 breakfasts and was open every morning for the homeless of any age. The Whitechapel Mission still exists today, although not from these premises, providing support for the needy, poor and homeless in this area. It is a volunteer led organisation and relies on the support of donations.
The building is also known because of its connection to Jack the Ripper. It was here that some of the inquests took place of the victims of the Ripper.

There has been a market on this stretch of the road in front of the station for centuries. Being one of the main thoroughfares into the City of London it was the ideal situation for a market. Over the centuries I am sure everything has been sold here. Currently, the market focuses on the needs of the Bengali community but with many street markets these days more people find the convenience of online shopping more appealing. It was early when I arrived so the stalls were still setting up. The ones I saw were either selling clothing or fruit and veg.

In the middle of the market is this drinking fountain, erected in 1911 to commemorate the life of King Edward VII (1841-1910) 'in grateful and loyal memory by the Jewish inhabitants of East London'  Edward was sympathetic towards the Jewish community at a time when anti-semitism was rife in Europe. Tens of thousands of Jewish immigrants settled in the East End between 1880 and 1910 to escape anti- Semitism in Eastern Europe.

On either side of  the King's portrait are statues of Liberty and Justice with cherubs holding a book, car and boat.

On the other side of Whitechapel Road is the Royal London Hospital, a world renowned teaching hospital. From the station you can see what used to be the main hospital building.

This is now surrounded by hoardings as it is being converted into the new town hall and civic centre for Tower Hamlets. It will have council chambers, meeting rooms, a public library and cafe. What sounds interesting about the new development is that many of the hospital's original features will be incorporated into the new building including the chapel windows and the lightwells from the operating theatres. The building is due to be opened in 2022.

The Royal London Hospital began life in 1740 as the London Infirmary, opening in a house in Moorgate. The hospital soon moved to Prescot street in Whitechapel closer to the dwellings of east London's sailors and working people. By 1744 the infirmary's house was cramped, leading to plans  for a new building. Land was bought on Whitechapel Road and a new hospital opened here in 1757. The hospital has been up dated and extended a number of times and I walked round the back of the original building to see the latest extension. Opened by the Queen in 2013 and commonly called the bright blue box. This is now the face of the Royal London.

Outside the hospital is a huge bronze statue of Queen Alexandra (1844-1925). She was a tireless supporter of London hospitals

 

In the 19th century the hospital was altered drastically as extensions were built to improve conditions. The Royal London was the first to receive the wounded from the Western Front in WW1. Today it forms part of Barts and the London School of Medicine and Dentistry as well  as a teaching hospital and is part of the Queen Mary University of London

This old church was converted into a medical and dental library for the London Hospital Medical College in 1985-8. It also houses the Museum of the Royal London Hospital. 

The Museum has material relating to Jack the Ripper, Dr Crippen and the Christie murders as well as a section on Joseph Merrick the 'elephant man'. Merrick was admitted to the hospital as a long term patient after being discovered in a freak show on Whitechapel Road by a surgeon from the hospital. The story of Merrick was told in the film 'The Elephant Man' starring John Hurt.

Behind the hospital is 'The Good Samaritan' pub. The name probably derived from its close proximity to the hospital. The earliest record of the pub dates back to 1827 but the current building was rebuilt in 1937 by Truman's brewery. The pub signs show a white coated doctor with a stethoscope round his neck. 

Other decorations above the pub sign on the wall are the roundel, bearing Truman's eagle, flanked by swags and finials full of carved flowers. The date on the roundel refers to the first recording of a member of the Truman family joining William Bucknall's brewhouse in 1666.

Next to the pub is this modernist block of flats, built by H. Victor Kerr in 1937.

Close by is the Blizard Building of Barts and the London School of Medicine and Dentistry named after Sir William Blizard who led the foundation of the London Hospital Medical Centre. It was opened in 2005.

Leaving the area surrounding the hospital I walked back to Whitechapel Road and on the way I passed Mount Terrace. This small street owes its name to Whitechapel Mount, an artificial hill formed in the mid 1600s as part of London's defences. The houses were built in 1806 and on one of them I noticed a fire mark displayed on the wall. This was to show fire brigades which house they could save as the owner  had paid for its protection to the insurance company which often had its own fire engines.

Other buildings of interest on Whitechapel Road include the East London Mosque. The Mosque began with the purchase of three houses in 1940 in Commercial Road, about a mile away. These houses were the first East London Mosque but they were compulsory bought by the Greater London Council for redevelopment in 1975. The Mosque operated from temporary accommodation for the next ten years until the present building was opened.  It was soon realised that the building was too small for the increasing Muslim population in the area. In 2004, the London Muslim Centre opened and in 2013, the Maryam Centre opened specifically for women's services. The East London Mosque is now the largest in the UK.

This building is the former Royal Oak public house which was also the home of Wilcox's Music Hall from 1869 to 1873. Zebedee Wilcox took over the license of the pub in 1868 and converted an upstairs room into a music hall.  Wilcox was a ginger beer and soda water manufacturer with an interest in the entertainment world. He went on to build a dedicated music hall behind the pub which opened in 1871. Zebedee died in 1873 and the music hall never reopened although the pub continued to trade right up to the 1980s. 

This 5 storey building with the large windows on the top floor caught my eye. I could see that it had a date at the top and three initials, A W B which I thought might be the builder or the original owner. Googling that information later, I discovered the builder's name was Arthur Winckles Brown, a corn merchant as well as an oil merchant and a builder. He operated from premises behind this one and built this himself to expand his empire. He let out the ground floor spaces and what were built as, well lit workshops at the top of the building were adapted to living spaces in 1902. By the 1920's Brown's Buildings housed tailors' workrooms and accommodated 67 people in the block. They are now offices.

Also on Whitechapel Road  is the Idea Store, Tower Hamlets alternative name for a library. Its brightly coloured windows do make it stand out on the High Street but I'm not convinced a change in name will encourage more people to make use of the facilities. As well as books to borrow it also has adult education classes, cafe and an 'after school study zone'.

Next to the Idea store is the former Albion Brewery.  The brewery was established in 1807 although these buildings were rebuilt and extended in 1863 by Mann, Crossman and Paulin. You can still see their name above the gates. Other brewery features include the clock and the carving of St  George and the dragon. The building was converted into flats in 1993.

Walking on you come to one of the most infamous pubs in the East End, The Blind Beggar. It was here that Ronnie Kray shot and killed George Cornell in 1966. In 1969 Ronnie and his twin brother Reggie were jailed for life. Reggie was convicted of murdering Jack 'the hat' McVitie. 

The pub was built in 1894 on the site of an inn which had been established before 1654 and takes its name from the legend of Henry de Montfort.  He was blinded at the battle of Evesham in 1286. He used to beg at the crossroads in Bethnal Green. His story from riches to rags became popular in the Tudor period.

The pub is also known as the location of William Booth's first sermon which led to the creation of the Salvation 

Whitechapel is a fascinating area with a colourful history. Industries such as brick making, lime burning and wood working began in the late 15th cent. Sephardi Jews from Spain and Portugal settled here in the 17th cent followed by German Immigrants. During the 19th century the housing became even more overcrowded. In the 1881 census, one street of 176 houses had 2,516 inhabitants. Poverty and hardship brought crime and prostitution to the area and with Jack the Ripper murders in 1888, its notoriety increased. The 1960s gang warfare between the Kray twins and the Richardson gang furthered its poor reputation.  The Jewish community moved out and in the 1970s their place was taken by South Asian immigrants, mainly from Bangladesh. It is thought that the new Elizabeth line, which should be opening in the next couple of years, may change the face of Whitechapel once again.