Aldgate East

Aldgate East is the 19th station on the District Line travelling westwards. The station also services the Hammersmith and City line and is the last of the stations on that line for me to visit.

There are four entrances/exits to the station with two on each side of Whitechapel High Street. 

I exited the station onto Whitechapel High Street and then turned left onto Commercial Street. Just back from the road is this building which looks more medieval than Victorian.

This is Toynbee Hall, named after Arnold Toynbee who helped the poor of the East End. It was built in 1884 and was set up so that University students and graduates could come and help to educate local people to give them a chance to escape the poverty and crime that was so prevalent in the area. In his early career Clement Atlee had been a secretary here before going on to be mayor of Stepney and then Prime Minister from 1945-51.











Next to the hall is an arts centre and café with this clock alongside. Due to Covid restrictions it was closed.

A short distance from the hall, on Wentworth Street is this arch leading to modern houses and flats that were part of the first purpose built development for Bangladeshi families. In the 19th cent this area was a slum and contained a number of overcrowded lodging houses. Three of Jack the Ripper's victims lived in these boarding houses. The red brick arch, which dates from 1886, has been preserved to commemorate a scheme to improve the standard of housing for people living here. In 1885, Nathaniel, later Lord Rothschild brought together prominent members of the Jewish community and persuaded them to form the Four Per Cent Industrial Dwellings Company. The company agreed to limit profits to 4% rather than the usual 8% or more. Limiting profit meant they could charge lower rents. Within 11 years the company had built good accommodation for 4000 people.

You can just about see the inscription above the arch: Erected by the Four Per Cent Industrial Dwellings Company.

I continued along Wentworth Street to where Brick Lane joins Osborne Street. This arch was erected in 1997 as an entrance to what is now known as 'Bangla Town'. This is home to numerous curry houses and a large Sunday morning market.

I walked back towards Whitechapel High Street via Old Castle Street. This photo shows how close we are to the City of London.

Also on Old Castle Street is the front wall of the Wash Houses erected in 1846. A number of public bath houses were built in this area to compensate for the lack of washing facilities in people's homes. These Victorian baths have now been transformed into an events venue for the London Metropolitan University. Also housed there are some of the University's special library collections.

Back on Whitechapel High Street is the White Hart Inn.

There are numerous references to Jack the Ripper in Whitechapel and numerous guided walks. People seem to be fascinated by the horrific details of the unsolved murders.

Next to the pub is this alleyway which has been tiled with a map of the area. It was designed by a local school as part of the Bethnal Green City Challenge. It brightens up what would otherwise be a very dark alleyway.

Next to the alleyway is a shop with this sign above which refers to the building's previous life when it was occupied by the Jewish Daily Post, a short lived daily newspaper. The building is now a 'vape' shop. The building is Grade II listed because of the sign. Apparently there is another one of historical interest inside the building but not accessible to the public.

A little further on is the Whitechapel Art Gallery.

The building opened in 1901 with the aim of bringing contemporary art to the people of East London. It has held some impressive exhibitions here such as Picasso's Guernica on its only time in Britain. It has also shown the works of Jackson Pollack, David Hockney and Gilbert and George.








 The frieze of golden leaves decorating the art gallery were designed by sculptor Rachel Whiteread and entitled 'The Tree of Life'.  The artist has lived in the area for 25 years and was the first woman to win the Turner Prize in 1993. This piece of artwork was commissioned for the London 2012 Festival as part of the Cultural Olympiad.












In 2009 the gallery expanded and took over the neighbouring building, the former Passmore Edwards Library which was opened ten years earlier than the gallery in 1892.The building also incorporates the eastern entrance to Aldgate East station.

Above the building is this unusual weathervane. In the original plans for the Whitechapel Library there was provision for a weathervane but this never materialised. Now, over a hundred years later in 2009, a weathervane has been added. This is not just any old weathervane but one designed by Rodney Graham, a Canadian artist, sculptor and musician. It features Graham himself as the 16th century Erasmus sitting backwards on the horse reading a copy of Erasmus's  best known work '  The Praise of Folly'. The 16th C scholar is said to have composed the book on a journey by horseback from Italy to England. The work is a satirical attack on superstitions and traditions in European society.

A more modern sense of humour is to be found with local shop names. This one is a fish and chip shop. There is another similarly named barber's shop close by called, yes you've guessed - Jack the Clipper.

Across the road on the corner of Whitechurch Lane is this old fountain. It was part of the old church of St Mary Matfelon.

Behind the fountain is the park where the church once stood.

The first church built on this site in the mid 13th century was a chapel of ease (a chapel built within the parish for those who cannot easily travel to the main parish church). Built of Kentish chalk rubble it was known as the 'White Chapel' which gave its name to the local area. In 1329 the chapel was rebuilt as St Mary Matfelon. In the mid 17th century St Mary's church is rebuilt in red brick in a neo-classical roman. In 1875 it is rebuilt again, this time in the  Gothic style. But just five years later it is damaged by fire and has to be rebuilt once again. During WW2 it is hit by an incendiary bomb and becomes an unofficial playground and home for vagrants. Twelve years later the derelict church tower is struck by lightning and the building is demolished. In 1966 the former St Mary's churchyard is opened as a municipal garden. You can still see some of the gravestones around the edge of the park.

In 1994 this park was dedicated to the memory of Altab Ali, the 25 yr old Bengali murdered in Adler Street on 4th May 1978 in a racist attack by three teenage boys. The murder took place on the night of the local elections where the far right National Front party was standing for election in 43 seats, far more than they ever had previously. Even though they polled poorly, their involvement provoked a highly charged atmosphere.

Altab Ali's murder highlighted the general level of racist violence at that time endemic across the borough of Tower Hamlets and beyond. His death marked a turning point. Ten days later on 14th May, about 7000 people marched from the site of his death to Hyde Park to mourn him and to demand police protection. Within the year, after a campaign of sit-down protests locally the National Front, whose headquarters were not far from Brick Lane, was forced out of the area. The Bengali youth movement, which led the Battle for 'Brick Lane', the Anti Nazi League and Rock against Racism groups were born out of the events of 1978 and far right extremists suffered a huge setback.

In 1999 the Shaheed Minar Monument was built to commemorate the Bengali Language martyrs. (On 21st February 1952 students from the University of Dhaka staged a nationwide protest against accepting Urdu as the nation's official language. The peaceful protest led to the loss of several lives.) In recognition of their struggle UNESCO declared the 21st February as 'International Mother Language Day'.

At the entrance to the park is a wrought iron arch created by David Peterson, as a memorial to Altab Ali and other victims of racist attacks. He has used Bengali motifs and the arch is attached to two stones from the original church to marry the two cultures together.

Overlooking the park is St Boniface's German RC church built in the 1950s  replacing the previous 19th century church.

The design of the bell tower is unusual but I believe this was the only design that would work to house the original 19th century bells.

Talking of bells I have now reached one of the most famous buildings in Whitechapel - the bell foundry. Sadly the foundry is no longer here.

Whitechapel Bell Foundry Ltd announces, with regret, that by May 2017 it will cease its activities at the Whitechapel Road site.
 The Foundry was listed in the Guinness Book of records as Britain's oldest manufacturing company, having been in continuous business since it was established in 1570. Just before it closed I was able to get on one of the last tours of the foundry. It is a step back in time as the bells were made by the same method as in previous centuries. Read about the tour here.
Some of the most famous bells cast here include the original Liberty Bell (Philadelphia), the Great Bell of Montreal and, of course, Big Ben at the Palace of Westminster. Big Ben is the largest bell cast at this foundry weighing over 13 tons.

Unfortunately planning permission has been granted by Tower Hamlets to turn this historic building into a boutique hotel. However, after much opposition from local people, the Minister for planning has stepped in and asked for an enquiry into the building's future. To date no decision has been made.







The next eighteen stations on the District line ar also on the Circle line and as I have already visited them I will now move to West London to continue my exploration of the District Line.

Whitechapel

Whitechapel station is currently being redeveloped as part of the building of Crossrail. Whitechapel will be an important interchange for the District Line, the Hammersmith and City Line, the Overground and the Elizabeth line (Crossrail). When the new station opens, the historic entrance onto Whitechapel Road will have been retained but there will be a much larger ticket hall, concourse and new Crossrail platforms. Although the main entrance to the station is closed the station is still open and is accessed via a small side street. Crossrail is so far behind in its schedule that no-one seems to know when the redevelopment of Whitechapel will be completed.






The name Whitechapel came from the chapel called St Mary Matfelon, which had white walls. This was situated in what is now Altab Ali Park, which is closer to Aldgate East station rather than Whitechapel . The chapel was originally built in the 13th century and the last of a series of chapels with this name was so badly damaged in World War 2 that it was pulled down after the war. Its floor plan can be seen in the park as can a few of the graves. Matfelon was the name of the family responsible for the 14th century building.

Next to the underground station is this large red bricked building. Looking up you can read the words  'Working Lads' Institute'. Although this building didn't open until 1885, the institute was founded in 1876 by Henry Hill, a city merchant, who wanted to provide alternative activities for young teenage boys to keep them away from the pubs. When this large building opened in the mid 1880s it had a library, swimming baths, gym and provided educational classes as well as accommodation. By the 1890s it had been taken over by Rev Thomas Jackson, a social reformer who developed it into the Whitechapel Mission. The Mission's many activities included free breakfasts and penny dinners for local children. In its first year it served over 11,000 breakfasts and was open every morning for the homeless of any age. The Whitechapel Mission still exists today, although not from these premises, providing support for the needy, poor and homeless in this area. It is a volunteer led organisation and relies on the support of donations.
The building is also known because of its connection to Jack the Ripper. It was here that some of the inquests took place of the victims of the Ripper.

There has been a market on this stretch of the road in front of the station for centuries. Being one of the main thoroughfares into the City of London it was the ideal situation for a market. Over the centuries I am sure everything has been sold here. Currently, the market focuses on the needs of the Bengali community but with many street markets these days more people find the convenience of online shopping more appealing. It was early when I arrived so the stalls were still setting up. The ones I saw were either selling clothing or fruit and veg.

In the middle of the market is this drinking fountain, erected in 1911 to commemorate the life of King Edward VII (1841-1910) 'in grateful and loyal memory by the Jewish inhabitants of East London'  Edward was sympathetic towards the Jewish community at a time when anti-semitism was rife in Europe. Tens of thousands of Jewish immigrants settled in the East End between 1880 and 1910 to escape anti- Semitism in Eastern Europe.

On either side of  the King's portrait are statues of Liberty and Justice with cherubs holding a book, car and boat.

On the other side of Whitechapel Road is the Royal London Hospital, a world renowned teaching hospital. From the station you can see what used to be the main hospital building.

This is now surrounded by hoardings as it is being converted into the new town hall and civic centre for Tower Hamlets. It will have council chambers, meeting rooms, a public library and cafe. What sounds interesting about the new development is that many of the hospital's original features will be incorporated into the new building including the chapel windows and the lightwells from the operating theatres. The building is due to be opened in 2022.

The Royal London Hospital began life in 1740 as the London Infirmary, opening in a house in Moorgate. The hospital soon moved to Prescot street in Whitechapel closer to the dwellings of east London's sailors and working people. By 1744 the infirmary's house was cramped, leading to plans  for a new building. Land was bought on Whitechapel Road and a new hospital opened here in 1757. The hospital has been up dated and extended a number of times and I walked round the back of the original building to see the latest extension. Opened by the Queen in 2013 and commonly called the bright blue box. This is now the face of the Royal London.

Outside the hospital is a huge bronze statue of Queen Alexandra (1844-1925). She was a tireless supporter of London hospitals

 

In the 19th century the hospital was altered drastically as extensions were built to improve conditions. The Royal London was the first to receive the wounded from the Western Front in WW1. Today it forms part of Barts and the London School of Medicine and Dentistry as well  as a teaching hospital and is part of the Queen Mary University of London

This old church was converted into a medical and dental library for the London Hospital Medical College in 1985-8. It also houses the Museum of the Royal London Hospital. 

The Museum has material relating to Jack the Ripper, Dr Crippen and the Christie murders as well as a section on Joseph Merrick the 'elephant man'. Merrick was admitted to the hospital as a long term patient after being discovered in a freak show on Whitechapel Road by a surgeon from the hospital. The story of Merrick was told in the film 'The Elephant Man' starring John Hurt.

Behind the hospital is 'The Good Samaritan' pub. The name probably derived from its close proximity to the hospital. The earliest record of the pub dates back to 1827 but the current building was rebuilt in 1937 by Truman's brewery. The pub signs show a white coated doctor with a stethoscope round his neck. 

Other decorations above the pub sign on the wall are the roundel, bearing Truman's eagle, flanked by swags and finials full of carved flowers. The date on the roundel refers to the first recording of a member of the Truman family joining William Bucknall's brewhouse in 1666.

Next to the pub is this modernist block of flats, built by H. Victor Kerr in 1937.

Close by is the Blizard Building of Barts and the London School of Medicine and Dentistry named after Sir William Blizard who led the foundation of the London Hospital Medical Centre. It was opened in 2005.

Leaving the area surrounding the hospital I walked back to Whitechapel Road and on the way I passed Mount Terrace. This small street owes its name to Whitechapel Mount, an artificial hill formed in the mid 1600s as part of London's defences. The houses were built in 1806 and on one of them I noticed a fire mark displayed on the wall. This was to show fire brigades which house they could save as the owner  had paid for its protection to the insurance company which often had its own fire engines.

Other buildings of interest on Whitechapel Road include the East London Mosque. The Mosque began with the purchase of three houses in 1940 in Commercial Road, about a mile away. These houses were the first East London Mosque but they were compulsory bought by the Greater London Council for redevelopment in 1975. The Mosque operated from temporary accommodation for the next ten years until the present building was opened.  It was soon realised that the building was too small for the increasing Muslim population in the area. In 2004, the London Muslim Centre opened and in 2013, the Maryam Centre opened specifically for women's services. The East London Mosque is now the largest in the UK.

This building is the former Royal Oak public house which was also the home of Wilcox's Music Hall from 1869 to 1873. Zebedee Wilcox took over the license of the pub in 1868 and converted an upstairs room into a music hall.  Wilcox was a ginger beer and soda water manufacturer with an interest in the entertainment world. He went on to build a dedicated music hall behind the pub which opened in 1871. Zebedee died in 1873 and the music hall never reopened although the pub continued to trade right up to the 1980s. 

This 5 storey building with the large windows on the top floor caught my eye. I could see that it had a date at the top and three initials, A W B which I thought might be the builder or the original owner. Googling that information later, I discovered the builder's name was Arthur Winckles Brown, a corn merchant as well as an oil merchant and a builder. He operated from premises behind this one and built this himself to expand his empire. He let out the ground floor spaces and what were built as, well lit workshops at the top of the building were adapted to living spaces in 1902. By the 1920's Brown's Buildings housed tailors' workrooms and accommodated 67 people in the block. They are now offices.

Also on Whitechapel Road  is the Idea Store, Tower Hamlets alternative name for a library. Its brightly coloured windows do make it stand out on the High Street but I'm not convinced a change in name will encourage more people to make use of the facilities. As well as books to borrow it also has adult education classes, cafe and an 'after school study zone'.

Next to the Idea store is the former Albion Brewery.  The brewery was established in 1807 although these buildings were rebuilt and extended in 1863 by Mann, Crossman and Paulin. You can still see their name above the gates. Other brewery features include the clock and the carving of St  George and the dragon. The building was converted into flats in 1993.

Walking on you come to one of the most infamous pubs in the East End, The Blind Beggar. It was here that Ronnie Kray shot and killed George Cornell in 1966. In 1969 Ronnie and his twin brother Reggie were jailed for life. Reggie was convicted of murdering Jack 'the hat' McVitie. 

The pub was built in 1894 on the site of an inn which had been established before 1654 and takes its name from the legend of Henry de Montfort.  He was blinded at the battle of Evesham in 1286. He used to beg at the crossroads in Bethnal Green. His story from riches to rags became popular in the Tudor period.

The pub is also known as the location of William Booth's first sermon which led to the creation of the Salvation 

Whitechapel is a fascinating area with a colourful history. Industries such as brick making, lime burning and wood working began in the late 15th cent. Sephardi Jews from Spain and Portugal settled here in the 17th cent followed by German Immigrants. During the 19th century the housing became even more overcrowded. In the 1881 census, one street of 176 houses had 2,516 inhabitants. Poverty and hardship brought crime and prostitution to the area and with Jack the Ripper murders in 1888, its notoriety increased. The 1960s gang warfare between the Kray twins and the Richardson gang furthered its poor reputation.  The Jewish community moved out and in the 1970s their place was taken by South Asian immigrants, mainly from Bangladesh. It is thought that the new Elizabeth line, which should be opening in the next couple of years, may change the face of Whitechapel once again.