Warren Street

 

This is the 29th station I have visited out of 52 stations on the Northern Line. The station opened in June 2007. It services both the Northern and Victoria Line although the Victoria line wasn't established until the late 1960s. 

The station was part of the original Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railway going from Charing Cross to Camden Town, now the Northern Line. It opened under the name of Euston Road and the name is still visible on Platform 2 of the Northern Line. The name changed to Warren Street in 2008.

I am assuming that other geometrical designs on the Northern Line platforms are also original.

The station was redesigned in 1968 when the Victoria Line was routed through the station. On the Victoria Line platforms the seating alcoves feature a maze tile design by Crosby Fletcher Forbes design partnership. It was inspired by the word 'Warren' in the station's name.

 Prior to all the rebuilding necessary when the Victoria Line was routed through the station in 1968 the station had been completely rebuilt in the early 1930s to accommodate the installation of escalators. Designed by the architect Charles Holden and Stanley Heaps, the curved brick exterior is similar to other stations Holden designed.

The station is situated at the junction of Tottenham Court road and Euston Road in the northern most part of Fitzrovia.  There are five tube stations within a 250m radius in this area so I wasn't sure I would find anything new to write about and there was no point in my walking any great distance from the station. 

As I exited the station I was struck by the number of high-rise buildings I could see. The closest one is Euston Tower. Built in 1970 it has been vacant since 1921. Planning permission was sought from Camden Council to redevelop the property. Permission was finally granted in March of this year to create a science and technology building. The revamp will change the 36 floors into reconfigured floors for use by science and technology firms of all sizes. To do this the building will be taken back to just the core, basement and foundations. Major building work happening here for locals to look forward to over the coming couple of years.

Diagonally opposite the Euston Tower is University College Hospital. This new hospital was opened in 2005 by the late Queen. Although the University College London Hospitals NHS Foundation Trust has only existed since 1994, the origins go back over 250 years and lie in the history of various individual hospitals. Some of those hospitals amalgamated to form the trust whilst others have now closed down such as the Middlesex which I mentioned in my last post. This hospital offers a wide range of services with apparently state of the art facilities.

There was no avoiding the number of homeless people who had pitched their tents in close proximity to these modern buildings. A feature in a number of cities in Europe.

I continued my walk by going to the area behind the station. An alleyway took me into Tolmers Square where I was surprised to see a lovely landscaped area surrounded by social/council housing. I had not heard the name of this square before and so was surprised when I read of its history. The square was built between 1861 and 1864. It was intended as a middle class residential area but due to its proximity to Euston station and industrial sites it became a working class district with a growing population. By the early 20th century it became a multicultural community with many Greek, Cypriot and Asian immigrants living here. The majority of properties were rented and were cheap. Rents could only be increased when tenants moved out but as rents were cheap tenants did not move. Landlords at that time were not large companies but tended to be builders who had constructed the houses and then passed the ownership on to members of their families. Without the increase in rents landlords couldn't or wouldn't carry out repairs. By the end of the 19th cent this had become one of the worst slums in London. By the middle of the 20th cent landlords were selling the properties. The properties were being bought up one by one by developers who wanted to change the square from residential to commercial with yet more office blocks. Then in the 1960s and 70s, the battle for Tolmers Village began where local residents, squatters and students from the nearby University College  resisted plans for commercial development. Their activism resulted in the area being transformed into council flats and preserving the residential community of the square. It was an amazing feat for a small community to resist the big commercial developers

The eating establishments must have catered for every taste. One street was full of Indian restaurants. Another had Japanese. I saw Chinese, Mexican, Turkish, Greek, French and so on.

This is The Camden People's Theatre which was founded in an old pub in 1994. It is very close to Tolman's square and is another example of the community within this area. It's main aim was to engage with the local community and provide drama and other activities led by the local community and not become an extension of West End theatres.  It is still a thriving theatre 30 years after its conception.

Just wandering down some of the back streets my eye was drawn to this building. The sign read The  Euston Skills Centre. Opened last year as a community based skills centre providing apprenticeships for residents wanting to work in the construction industry. The funding to support the construction and operation of the centre has come from the government as part of their assurance to protect the lives and livelihoods of residents from the impact of HS2. This is Britain's new High Speed railway which will connect London and Birmingham.

At the end of the road it had all been boarded up as this is where a lot of the construction is taking place for the HS2. Judging by the notices that I read on the nearby streets, there is a lot of disruption in the area caused by the closing off of some of the streets and the diversions that are in place. 

In front of the skills centre is the Starcross Yard Temporary open Space. The London Borough of Camden created this public space in 2022 to help lessen the effects of the loss of public open space due to the construction of the High Speed Rail. Most of the materials such as railings, seats and gates have been salvaged from other railway from other stations' redevelopments and schemes across the borough.

Surrounding the temporary open space is the old Maria Fidelis School. The pupils have moved to a new school nearby and this building is going to be used to create a temporary site  and welfare accommodation for the nearby HS2 as well as being used by the Euston Skills Centre

There is a lack of greenery walking around these streets but this house certainly bucks the trend with its showy wisteria in full bloom.


Round another corner and I couldn't miss this signage.

 

Not such an impressive building but I did like the brass number plate on the  door of the Magic Circle showing the signs of the Zodiac. The number on the door is of course Number 12. When I was researching for the Leicester Square post I came across a blue sign noting the beginning of the Magic Circle in 1905 at Pinoli's restaurant. I had forgotten that it mentioned the HQ here. Behind this rather dull looking building there is a small theatre and rooms full of magic paraphernalia including Houdini's straitjacket. Although magicians have to prove their skill to gain entry and agree to observe the Circle's motto (Indocilis privata loqui) 'not apt to disclose secrets', it is not a secret society. The building is open to the public for shows, visits and talks. The most well known member is perhaps King Charles III. He joined in 1975 after performing a cup and balls trick! The only non human member is Sooty, who lives in the museum. 

This is the recently opened Triton square and is one of the lowest carbon HQs in the UK . According to their website they saved 40,000 tonnes of carbon compared to other new build workplaces. They have managed to do this by refurbishing rather than rebuilding. They reused as much of the existing structure and fabric as possible. They also strengthened the existing building so that further floors could be added. It is good to see the construction industry taking climate change seriously. Maybe too little too late but everyone needs to do their bit.

These modern water fountains are very handy for filling water bottles and hopefully cutting down the need for plastic bottles.

This artwork is on the wall of one of the blocks of flats in the Regent's Park estate close to the station. Created by Brendan Barry in 2024 it is a portrait of the community representing both past and present people who live and work on this estate.

This is a densely populated area with numerous blocks of flats

On this treelined path beside one large block is more artwork but you have to be looking for it to find it as it is beneath your feet, three, what look like, manhole covers.

The artists Yara and Davina converted traditional manhole covers into Woman Whole covers in 2025. The idea came from creative workshops with local mothers reflecting on the theme' what makes a woman whole'. Based on their thoughts the artists produced these cast iron artwork covers embedded in the paving in Everton Mews.

On my way back to the station I passed this interesting building. 

The sign above the door told me that this was the St Pancras Female orphanage. From 1780 the orphanage occupied these premises and could accommodate up to 65 girls between the ages of 9 and 11 years old. The aim of the orphanage was to 'maintain, clothe, educate and train for domestic service female orphans belonging to the parish of St Pancras'. By 1930 the age of admission was widened to between 4 and 12 yrs of age. In 1945 the trustees sold the property to the National Temperance Hospital. In more recent times it has been occupied by the Margarete Centre, a NHS centre for people addicted to non prescribed drugs. Not sure whether it is still open though.

Walking back along Warren Street after which the station is named, I spotted a blue plaque which would be of interest to Australian readers. Matthew Flinders was the first to circumnavigate Australia and use the name in his book, Voyage to Terra Australis. Flinders who was from Lincolnshire led the first circumnavigation of Australia. The story doesn't end there though because in 2019 his remains were identified after an excavation at St James's burial ground in Euston during work on HS2.  Following a local campaign it was decided that he would be reburied in the village of Donington where he was born. Due to Covid it was another five years before his remains were finally laid to rest. As a naval captain he received a ceremonial funeral with an 18 gun salute and pallbearers from the Royal Navy's state ceremonial team carried his coffin. 

A few minutes walk and I was back at Warren Street station. I started this visit thinking there wouldn't be much to see but there was far more than anticipated.

Goodge Street

 

Here I am at Goodge Street station on the Northern Line. This is #207 out of 272 stations I have visited on the Underground. It was opened in 1907 as Tottenham Court Road station but this was changed the following year to Goodge Street. It is one of 8 stations that have a WW2 deep level air raid shelter underneath which was used by the Supreme Headquarters Allied Expeditionary Force during the war. General Eisenhower, the Commander of the Allied Forces in Europe, broadcast the announcement of the invasion of France from here on 6th June 1944. Much of the BBC's Doctor Who series was filmed in the shelter in the 1960s.

The station is one of a few stations that have no escalators to take you to and from ground level. There are four lifts or if you are feeling very energetic there is always the staircase.

It is also one of the few stations that has kept the separate entrance and exit which used to be a common feature of tube stations. The ox-blood red tiles on the exterior tell us that this station was designed by Leslie Green.

Around the corner from the station is the Eisenhower Centre. This was the entrance to the underground headquarters of the Allied Army. The monument in front of the building pre dates this entrance. It is a memorial to The Rangers, a London regiment and was erected after WW1

Behind the Eisenhower Building is the semi circular Minerva House. Built in 1912 it was once home to the Minerva Motor Company, a Belgian firm that manufactured luxury cars. It started out at the turn of the 20th century producing safety bicycles and then branched out into light cars and motorized bicycles. By 1912 the company's luxury cars were being favoured by royalty but the timing wasn't great. The First World War and the depression in the 1930s saw the company struggle. It did go on to produce vehicles for the army but ceased trading in 1956. I think nowadays it is yet another office block.

Just across from the station is this mural. It is based on local life and people as well as things which have influenced the area.
                                                                                                                                                                        

On the opposite side of the road to the station is Heal's Department store. Although very familiar with the name, I can't remember ever visiting the store. 

     

It is a beautiful furniture store and was the first brand to introduce French style feather-filled mattresses. This store has been here since 1917 and is their flagship store. It is known for showcasing some of the best designs around. When war broke out Heal's workshops adapted so they could make parachutes to aid the war effort. The expertise gained, whilst doing this, was transferred to producing their own range of textiles after the war, Heal's Fabrics.

I did go in for a look round but quickly realised that the prices had at least 2 if not 3 digits too many for my pocket but I did enjoy looking at some amazing designs. This is the Cecil Brewer staircase with a Bocci chandelier cascading down the centre.

Also on the staircase is The Heal's Cat, considered to be the company's mascot. Sold by accident and returned to the shop at the request of Sir Ambrose Heal, the cat was described as ' the presiding deity of Heal's' by the author of 101 Dalmations, Dodie Smith and reportedly grants wishes if you touch its paws as you pass.

Further along Tottenham Court Road is a newish tourist attraction, Life Size Monopoly. It is an immersive experience with various challenges and escape rooms. Sounded interesting but at over £50 a person, I don't think I will be visiting anytime soon.

There are a number of underground stations in this area so I was trying to find places of interest I've not written about before. I left Tottenham Court Road to go down Torrington Place.

 The area is known as Bloomsbury and has lots of mansion blocks in this area.

This impressive building was designed by C. Fitzroy Dell, who also designed hotels and part of the interior of the Titanic. The building is described as Franco-Flemish Gothic. It started off as a row of shops with one being a bookshop. Waterstones bookshop has now taken over the whole building and must surely be one of the biggest bookshops in the country.

 

Around the corner is RADA, one of the oldest drama schools in the UK. Founded in 1904 it currently has five theatres. The Royal Academy of Dramatic Art has an impressive list of former pupils: Sir John Geilgud, Richard Attenborough, Anthony Hopkins, Glenda Jackson, Imelda Staunton and so on and so on.

London University is also based in this area. This building is called Senate House. It was the idea of Sir William Beveridge who wanted to provide a new cohesive home for London University. Since 1836 the university had been situated in a number of campuses across London. The original idea was to have one single structure with two towers, one being the Senate House with a smaller tower alongside. The architect was Charles Holden, who I have mentioned on numerous occasions as the architect of many art and craft underground stations. Construction began in 1932, however, due to lack of funds and the onset of WW2 only the Senate House and library were completed in 1937.

When war broke out in 1939 the building was taken over by The Ministry of Information which was responsible for subterfuge, censorship and propaganda during the war. The building managed to survive a number of bombings. It is now the administrative centre of the University of London.

I turned the corner into Keppel Street and came across the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine. The school was founded in 1899 as the London School of Tropical medicine. By 1921 it was decided to create a London based  institution that would lead the world in the promotion of public health and tropical medicine.  The purchase of the site and the cost of a new building was made possible by a gift of $2m from the Rockefeller Foundation.. 

 The first floor balconies are decorated with gilded bronze insects and animals involved in transmitting disease

Although the facade of the building has remained unchanged since 1929 the inside has been completely transformed and modernised.

I walked back over Gower Street and Tottenham Court road into an area known as Fitzrovia. This is  Rathbone Street where I was attracted to this brightly painted red building, the Newman Arms.

I noticed an alleyway alongside the pub which I decided to see where it would take me.

 

The walkway took me on to a narrow passage which made me think of Dickens and his descriptions of Victorian London.

I walked back round to Charlotte Street.  It is said that the name Fitzrovia was first used to describe the area around the pub, the Fitzroy Tavern, during the 1920s.

The Fitzroy Tavern was named after Charles Fitzroy who developed this area in the 18th cent and is located on the corner of Charlotte Street and Windmill Street. This pub was once the meeting place for various writers and artists including Dylan Thomas, George Orwell and Augustus John.

Across the road from the Tavern is the Charlotte Street Hotel. On this site was once the Charlotte Street Chapel built in 1765. When it was demolished in 1867 a Victorian dental depot was built here. It was during this time that the number of dental products were increasing with the need for porcelain teeth and various dental instruments. After  the war there were 15 dental depots in this area serving all the dental practices around Harley Street and Wimpole Street. This building was eventually converted into a hotel that was opened in 2000. It is a boutique hotel with 52 individually designed rooms costing from £850 per night (without breakfast) if you are interested.

 
Walking a little further along Charlotte Street you come to Colville Place, one of London's oldest residential walkways. The residents have created quite a green oasis that all of us can enjoy as we walk through.

 

Not too far from the tube station in the middle of a new 2016 development of offices, houses and shops is the Victorian Fitzrovia Chapel. This Grade II listed chapel was built in 1890 for the staff and patients of the Middlesex hospital. When the hospital closed in 2005 and all services moved to the new University College Hospital the chapel remained due to its Grade II listing. Part of the development deal for the area was to pay for a £2m refurbishment to restore the chapel to its former glory. During Open House weekend I had the opportunity of visiting for the first time.

The first ever service was held here on Christmas day in 1891. Services were led by many different faith leaders as well as non-denominational services of Thanksgiving and reflection. The chapel was never fully consecrated and now hosts concerts, exhibitions and cultural events as well as having weekly open days when the public are welcomed. 

On my way back to the tube station I was hoping to make one more visit and that was to Pollocks Toy Museum but I was disappointed to see that it had closed. Information on the website tells me that is is temporary as they are looking for funding to open in another permanent site. In the mean time they are holding temporary exhibitions in other locations. One of which is not too far from where I now live. Hopefully I will manage a trip there before too long.