Redbridge

This is one of those stations I had been looking forward to visiting since I started exploring the Central Line. It is sited next to a very busy roundabout which I have to negotiate on my frequent trips to Manchester. Every time I drive past I wonder why you would want to exit the Underground at that particular spot. So today was my chance to find out.

The station is a listed building being of architectural interest as well as historical importance as home to a munitions factory during WW2. As I mentioned in my previous post the tunnels from Gants Hill to Wanstead stations were used as a factory making aircraft components during the war.

The station was designed by Charles Holden, an architect who designed a number of Underground stations during the 1920s and 30s.

This is the lighting in the ticket hall.

 I like the way Holden has incorporated the roundel into the fencing at the back of the station. The initial design was for a glass tower which would be permanently lit but  post war shortages prevented it being built.

This shows how close the station is to the roundabout

The front entrance to the station.

Across from the station is this large pub and Premier Inn hotel.  Its close proximity to the North Circular (inner London orbital road) and the M11 motorway (useful for Stanstead airport) would make this a convenient stopover for visitors to London. 

A few minutes walk from the station and you are on Roding Lane South with access to Roding Valley Park. It would be a very picturesque green area except for the dumping of rubbish there by morons who can't be bothered to take it to the council dump. Whilst taking the photo I met another walker  who explained the difficulties the council was having to discourage the dumping of rubbish.

I crossed the River Roding and walked on the pathway beside the river as far as the pumping station.

Built in the mid 19th century and recently refurbished, it looks an impressive building by the side of the river. It is no longer in use but the building has been listed. I crossed back across the River and left the Roding Valley park here.

This is Spire Roding Hospital providing private healthcare. In the UK we have the National Health Service which provides free healthcare for all but we also have a number of private healthcare providers for which you will pay handsomely if you want an alternative to the waiting lists of the NHS.. This hospital provides cosmetic and plastic surgery as well as other services.

John, the walker I met earlier suggested I have a look at the PDSA building (People's Dispensary for Sick Animals). Looking at the building it looked very ordinary so I had a quick look around the back.

I saw a sign for a pets' cemetery and went to investigate.

Above the gateway were the words:

They are ever in our thoughts

Love never dies

I realised that this was no ordinary pets' cemetery as it had some very distinguished animals buried here. Ones that had been awarded the Dickin Medal. This medal is the animal equivalent of the Victoria Cross. It was instituted in 1943 by Maria Dickin to honour the work of animals in WW2. It is awarded to animals that have displayed 'conspicuous gallantry or devotion to duty while servng or associated with any branch of the Armed Forces or Civil Defence Units'

Here are a few of the gravestones.

There were many other well loved pets in the cemetery

Although it seemed a built up area I came across plenty of green space.

Look at all the mistletoe clumps in the trees.

This primary school built in 1905 still has the school bell in its tower on the roof.
                                                                                    I wonder if they still ring it occasionally

Time to return to Redbridge Underground station via the subway.

Gants Hill

This is the first truly underground station I have visited as I go from East to West on the Central line. It has no surface buildings whatsoever.

As I stepped off the Tube the first thing I noticed was this clock where roundels have taken the place of numbers.

There are even ceramic roundel tiles.

There are only two platforms, one for the eastbound trains and one for the westbound.


Between the platforms is this barrel-vaulted hall designed by the modernist architect Charles Holden in the 1930s. It is said that the design was influenced by his visit to the Moscow Metro in 1936. The outbreak of war in 1939 meant that work on the station had to stop. At that point only the tunnelling from Leytonstone to Gants Hill had been completed  and they were being used as air raid shelters.   In September 1940, air raids on the East end of London caused severe damage to Plessey's factory in Ilford which halted the production of vital aircraft components. Plessey moved the production line to the tunnels in 1942 once extra ventilation and access shafts had been made. A railway was built to carry materials to the machines and with a workforce of 2000 there was a canteen that could seat 600 and restrooms for 1600. It took almost two years to dismantle the factory after the war and Gants Hill didn't open as an underground station until December 1947.

Escalators are needed here to take you up to ground level, where you are greeted with these art deco lights and a maze of subways.

Reading newspaper articles from 1986-89, it was obvious that the subways attracted muggers and vandals with a constant stream of rubbish in the subways and vandalised lights. When new tiles were put up in the subways they were coated with an anti-graffiti surface which allows spray paint to be wiped off. In 1993 security cameras were installed at the station. It looked reasonably clean the day I visited so I can only assume things have changed for the better.

       
The station is situated beneath the junction of five major roads : A12(East and West), Cranbrook Road, Woodford Ave and the High Street. You emerge from the subways onto a busy roundabout which is the centre of Gant's Hill, the name originating from the medieval owners of the land, the Le Gant family. I could find no evidence of a hill! There used to be an art deco cinema next to the roundabout which was a local landmark but that was demolished in 2003 and replaced by a block of flats.

In the centre of the roundabout is this 'work of art'. It was commissioned as something that would give a feeling of arrival and regeneration. Referred to as a 'rusty looking egg whisk' by local people it has not gone down well. I would like to say that it looks better in real life but that would be a lie.

I found this piece of art more welcoming. It is called The Beacon and is designed by a local Infant school in collaboration with  local artists.

There were no upmarket shops here but the usual array of newsagents, hair and beauty shops and takeaways. I do like the shape of the street lamps though.

This is Lloyds bank which has an art deco feel to it. I don't know for certain but I imagine it was built in the late 1930s with the coming of the Underground and the increase in housing and population.

I decided to walk down each of the major roads looking for places of interest. Walking down Cranbrook Road (A123) my first stop was the local library where the staff couldn't have been more helpful. The library was built in 1938 and has a deep basement that was used as a bomb shelter. They didn't have a large section of local history books but I did look at some old photos of the area and gleaned some information from those.

Close to the station on Perth Road is this large three storey, mock Tudor pub. An attractive building with its cream weather boarding and leaded windows. It is huge inside but not particularly welcoming unless you like numerous large TV screens showing sport.

Continuing down Perth Road I came to the side entrance into Valentine's Park. This is a huge park with its ornamental lakes, formal gardens, tennis courts,cricket ground, delightful cafe and of course the mansion.

Valentines Mansion was built around 1696 for Elizabeth Tillotson and her family after the death of her husband, the Archbishop of Canterbury. The  area was very different then with the mansion surrounded by open countryside. The house has been owned by numerous families since then. The last private resident died in 1906 and the local council acquired the house in 1912. Since then the mansion has been a home to wartime refugees, a hospital, a public health centre and a council housing department. As well as the backdrop for the filming of The Great British Bake Off.














After standing empty for 15 years it was restored and opened to the public in 2009

It was a bitterly cold day and so a  hot bowl of soup in the cafe was very welcome before wandering around this large park. It was a delight to find somewhere so enchanting after the dreariness and heavy traffic of the surrounding roads. The park is approximately 125 acres in size.

I walked past the frozen ornamental water and exited the park onto Cranbrook Road.

This corner store caught my eye with its original name on the clock face.

 One of the oldest buildings in this area is the Hospital Chapel of St Mary and St Thomas. Founded c1145 by the Abbess of Barking as a hospice for old and infirm men. It is about a 20 minute walk from Gants Hill station

 Exterior view of the chapel



The complex consisted of the chapel and on either side, the almshouses which housed the poor and the chaplains of which there would have been two. By 1218 the hospital was admitting lepers. In 1960 an archaeological investigation of the courtyard revealed over 20 burials and recent scientific examinations revealed that some had indeed suffered from leprosy. Recently the almshouses have been converted to modern flats.

 At one time this was the Chaplain's house








Above the door is the Arms of Gascogne-Cecil family

On the opposite side of the courtyard is the almshouse

Above the door is the Arms of the Abbess of Barking

I had now explored South of the Gants Hill roundabout so I walked in the opposite direction down Woodford Avenue. Very residential so not much to see. Noticed this 1957 Telephone Exchange. Not quite sure how I managed to make the building alongside it look as though it's about to fall over though!

Just around the corner was Clayhill Park with its children's playground, bowling green and flower garden.

It also had this line of trees. I then noticed the stone on the right of this picture which has a metal plaque embedded into it referring to trees planted in the park on Armistice day 1937 to commemorate the coronation of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth (the mother and father of our present Queen).




'...the leaves on the tree were for the healing of the Nations.' Rev 22.2

My walk around the area of Gants Hill was complete and on this freezing cold day it was definitely time to go home.